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Electric Deer Fence Supplies: Catalog Introduction


 electric deer fence product collage



These catalog pages show all the products offered on this site and provide basic information about them. Please note that these products have been selected because they are suited to electric deer fences. If you want to see a complete listing of our company's electric fence products, visit our discount electric fence website.

To select any given class of fence products, use the menu at the left or the entries below.

  • Electric Fence Chargers: Also known as energizers, these take electric current from an AC outlet, a deep-cycle battery, or a battery powered by a solar panel and turn it into a relatively safe high-voltage charge. Nearly all modern chargers put out a pulsed charge, which means they use very little energy -- probably less than the amount used to light a 40-watt bulb. Since high voltage is needed to shock deer, and since deer respond best to a moderately strong shock, most sensible chargers used on deer fences put out a moderately strong (1 to 3 joule) charge.

  • Conductors and Reels:  You don't want to make your fence conductor highly visible to the deer, because then they will jump over it. So avoid putting polyrope or polytape on deer fences. Instead use metal wire or polywire. Specifically, use metal wire on a permanent fence and polywire on a fence that you want to take up seasonally or move about. You cannot reel up metal wire, at least not easily, but you can reel up polywire, store it, and re-use it. So it pays to get our reel, which will hold up to 1,320 feet of polywire; and if you plan to use more than that it will also prove worthwhile to get enough extra spools to store it in the off-season.

  • Posts: We really like using our thin (3/8-inch diameter) fiberglass posts as line posts because they are strong, long-lasting, affordable, won't carry an electric charge, and (unlike some fiberglass posts) won't give their installers any splinters. However, at a 3 or 4 foot height these posts are fairly flexible; so plan on using less flexible posts (metal U-posts, metal T-posts, or wooden posts) as your fence's corner, gate, and end posts.

  • Insulators: We carry a really nifty little insulator that clips onto 3/8-inch fiberglass posts. It holds its place well, but with a little effort can be slid up or down the post to whatever place you like. This insulator works well with both metal wire and polywire. However, it won't attach to metal or wooden posts. So if you are using metal or wooden posts at your fence's ends and corners, get corner knob insulators for that task. Regarding gates, if you are using U-posts as gate posts get U-post insulators; if you are using metal T-posts get two-ring T-post insulators; and if you are using wooden posts get two-ring wood post insulators.

  • Connectors and Tensioners: You can physically connect two metal wires or two polywires by simply tying them off, and you can terminate them the same way. However, if you want to form a good electrical connection it is best to use a polywire crimp for polywire or a split-bolt clamp for metal wire. Also use the split-bolt clamp for establishing electrical connections between hookup wire and either metal wire or polywire. You can tension metal wire manually, if need be by taking an extra turn or two around an appropriate fiberglass post. To tension polywire, which can stretch, use our small and inexpensive polywire tensioner, which comes in packs of six.

  • Deer Lures and Scent Caps: Hunters use concentrated apple and grape scents to lure in deer. We use the same scents to charge our scent caps. Wire the scent caps to the charged fence wire at roughly 20-foot intervals and apply a few drops of apple or grape scent to the cotton ball inside the cap. This will attract deer to the fence, thereby giving them a shock and training them to avoid the protected area.

  • Ground rods and clamps: If there is reasonable moisture in the soil and all parts of your fence will be within 300 feet of the ground rod, get our little two-foot ground rod with attachment nuts. If conditions are more difficult or your fence is longer, get a six-foot ground rod, which will also need a clamp.

  • Gate gear: Electric fence gadgeteers have devised all sorts of gates for your convenience. If you want to do it on your own, get insulators that attach to your gate posts, a gate handle, and a ring for each place where you need to cross a gate. Or get the small gate kit that attaches to wood posts and T-posts and does the job better (you will still need a handle). Or if your gate is wider than about 6 feet consider getting a slinky gate that is more expensive but will stretch to span up to 20 feet. Plan to put one gate-crossing gadget on your gate for each run of wire or polywire on the fence.

  • Fence testers: Get an electric fence tester to see how much voltage is on the fence. If you get a five or eight-lite tester, be aware that your charger's output may exceed the maximum readings of these devices; so apply them sparingly to avoid possible burnout. This problem does not affect the more expensive digital fence tester we list, which can register up to 20 kilovolts.

  • Warning Signs and Flags: Most people like to use warning signs as a courtesy to strangers, and some states require them. Also, if your fence has more than one line of posts the deer may not be aware of the inner wires. To jog their awareness, tie some white flags on a lower wire (not the upper wire), helping them to view a mysterious set of wires they do not want to probe.