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Deer fence Installation Instructions: 1-Wire Kits

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1 wire kit installation instructions - deer shock depot 1 wire kit installation instructions - deer shock depot (309 KB)

 

 

Instructions For A One-Wire Baited Electric Deer Fence Kit  


Includes lengths of 100, 200, 300, and 600 feet
Height: 3 Feet

 



These installation instructions provide the following:

  1. A list of items in our 100, 200, 300, and 600-foot one-wire kits
  2. A list of other items you will need
  3. Maintenance tips

 

Items in the 100, 200, 300, and 600 foot one-wire kits

100 ft

200 ft

300 ft

600 ft

Major Items:

 

 

 

 

Posts: 4-foot steel U-posts

6

6

6

6

Insulators: corner knobs for U-posts

10

10

10

10

Insulators: U-post insulators for gate

2

2

2

2

Posts: 3/8-in x 4-ft green fiberglass

0

5

10

20

Insulators: clip-on for fiberglass posts

0

6

10

20

Wire: 16 gauge aluminum

164 ft

300 ft

300 ft

600 ft

Split-bolt style clamp

1

1

1

1

Minor Items:

 

 

 

 

Scent caps

4

8

16

32

Apple scent

1.25 oz

1.25 oz

4 oz

4 oz

Gate handle

1

1

1

1

Ground rod: 2-ft with nuts

1

1

1

1

Warning signs

3

3

3

3

Fence tester, 5-lite

1

1

1

1

Setup instructions

1

1

1

1

 

 















Other Items Needed:

  1. Electric fence charger - suggested joule rating of 1.0 – 3.0
  2. Hookup wire (needed with AC-powered chargers)
  3. Gardening or work gloves
  4. Wire-cutters, knife, hammer, trowel
  5. Twist ties or nails (to affix signs)

Installing the Fence:

  1. Clear the path over which the fence will run.

  2. Use a hammer to set all the steel U-posts a foot into the ground at the fence corners and at both sides of any gate opening.  If you purchased additional gates, install the U-posts for them now and proceed to install these other gates in the same way as you install the gate included with this kit.

  3. Attach a clip-on insulator to the top of each fiberglass post: 100’ kit skips this step. Attach the insulators when the temperature is above 40º F in order not to risk cracking them. Or, if you must install in the cold, bring the insulators over to each post in a bowl of warm water.

  4. Insert your fiberglass posts (if you have them) a foot into the ground, spaced so that there is no more than 30 feet between any two of them. If you need to pound a fiberglass post in with a hammer, put a small board between the hammer and the top of the post to avoid marring the post top.

  5. Attach U-post gate insulators to the tops of your gate U-post, using the cotter pins provided with the insulators.

  6. Attach your corner knob insulators to the U-posts at the corners: Cut off a foot-long length of wire and run it through one of the corner insulator’s  channels (with the U-post in the middle) and twist the wire around itself on the other side. The insulator goes on the inside of the corner. The actual active fence wire will later run through the second channel (the one not being used to attach to the U-Post) to make a corner.  Repeat this action on each of your corner posts.
    Corner knob attachment is confusing. Please watch our video on insulators for a demonstration.

  7. Start stringing your fence wire: Start at the right side of a gate post, and wind the metal wire all around the insulator.  Twist the end of the extra wire around the outgoing wire several times in order to fix it firmly on the insulator.  String the wire all around the fence, hanging it from each clip-on fiberglass post insulator. Pull the wire reasonably tight manually as you go.

  8. Attaching wire to the corner insulators: When you reach your corners, detach the corner knob from the post by untwisting the ends of the attachment wire. Then detach the attachment wire from the corner knob by untwisting the middle portion of the attachment wire a turn or two. Next, insert your fence wire into the inner channel on the corner knob, replace the corner knob in the loop of attachment wire, twist the middle part of the attachment wire around a couple of times to secure the corner knob, and reattach the wire to its former position on the post by twisting the attachment wire’s two ends together. Repeat this each time you come to a corner.

  9. Terminating the wire at the gates: When you reach a gate, run the wire around the insulator several times to secure it without touching the insulator’s metal base. DO NOT cut the wire at this point. Instead, figure out how much wire is needed to span the gate opening and cut the wire at that point.

  10. Attaching the wire to the gate handles: Thread the end of the wire through the hole at the back of a gate handle, arranging things so that the gate handle can hook onto the non-metal part of the appropriate gate insulator to make a snug fit.  Twist the wire several times around itself at the back of the gate handle to secure the wire to the gate handle. Remove any excess wire at the back of the gate handle with wire cutters.

  11. Finish stringing the wire: Begin a new run of wire on the far side of this gate (the side where the gate handle hooks in). Continue to string your wire around the fence until you reach the place on the fence where you started, and terminate the wire.

  12. Deal with wire sag: Straighten the areas where the fence wire is running lower than you want it to. Tighten and raise it by taking an extra turn or two around a nearby fiberglass post (fiberglass is an insulator) or by twisting one of the wire’s clip-on insulators around the post a few times. Make sure that your fence wire does not come close to the metal base of any gate post insulator at any point.

  13. Attach and bait the scent caps: Attach the caps to the fence wire at intervals no greater than 20 feet by wrapping both ends of each scent cap’s aluminum wire around the fence wire. Point the open end of the scent cap downward, so as to protect the deer lure and cotton ball from exposure to the rain. To bait the caps, turn them upward, and place a few drops of scented deer lure on the cotton ball within the cap and face them downward again. This action needs to be repeated every 10 to 14 days.

  14. Post the warning signs: This should be done on or near the fence, giving special attention to places where people are likely to be surprised by the fence.

  15. Place the ground rod: This is best done in a place where the soil is generally moist during the seasons when the fence will be working, is close to the fence, and that is also reasonably close to the electric fence charger. This spot should also be at least 50 feet away from the grounding system associated with your home’s electric service.

  16. Hammering in the ground rod: Pound the rod, thread end up, into the ground until only about 4 inches protrude. Place a board between the hammer and the top of the rod to avoid damaging the threads.

  17. Going under gates or gaps in your fence:  (Fences with 1 gate skip this step) Should there be a place where a building or wall interrupts your fence, or should you have more than one gate, you will need to use insulated undergate and hookup wire and split-bolt clamps to connect all sections of your fence. To connect two sections of your fence across a gate opening with hookup wire, cut a length of hookup wire nine feet wider than your gate opening. Carefully strip an inch of insulation off each end with a sharp knife. Attach one end to the fence wire at one side of your gate with a split-bolt clamp. Now take the hookup wire across the gate opening, burying it a few inches underground to keep it away from feet and lawnmowers. Bring the hookup wire up on the other side of the gate and attach its bare end to the fence wire with a split-bolt clamp. If vehicles will be coming through the gate it’s a good idea to put the hookup wire through a pipe to protect the insulation against cracking and also a good idea to put some holes in the bottom of the pipe to ensure drainage.

    DO NOT replace the hookup wire with regular insulated wire designed to carry house current, because the charger’s output, though harmless, has too high a voltage to be contained by house current wire, and so this substitution will prevent your fence from working.

Charger/Energizer Installation and Trouble-shooting:

  1. Remove the fence charger/energizer from its package: upon opening, read the installation instructions; including the safety provisions. Never by-pass the charger, and never use an extension cord carrying house current outdoors in connection with this kit–because house current is dangerous and can create life-threatening situations. Note that charger instructions are commonly written for cattle fences extending many miles in dry conditions. They often recommend installing multiple 8-foot ground rods.  Unless you are operating in the desert or tundra, you don’t need so much grounding.

  2. Place your charger/energizer:
    1. If your charger is AC-powered, plug it into an AC outlet near the fence, arranging things so that you have enough insulated hookup wire to reach from the charger to the fence. If your charger is being placed outdoors: Prolong the charger’s life by providing some protection from the weather (rain and snow).  This can be done with wooden housing or with something as simple as the bottom of a 1 gallon plastic milk bottle, with a small vent cut in it. If the charger is being placed indoors Provide a small hole through a wall or woodwork that is large enough to admit the insulated hookup wire. Do not pass the insulated hookup wire through a door or window opening, as this is likely to cause bending or other stress that could break the insulation.
    2. If your charger is battery-powered, get either D-cell batteries or a deep cycle battery of the appropriate voltage; these batteries (in contrast to car batteries) can be drawn down fully before being recharged. Locate the charger near the fence and connect it to your battery. Prolong the charger’s life by providing some protection from the weather (rain and snow).  This can be done with wooden housing or with something as simple as the bottom of a 1 gallon plastic milk bottle, with a small vent cut in it.
    3. If your charger is solar-powered, orient it so that its solar panel catches maximum sun and place the charger near the fence.  Allow it some time to charge before testing it.

  3. Test the charger/energizer: Plug in or turn on the charger/energizer; many have lights, meters, or clicking noises when activated.  Use your fence tester to touch both the positive and negative terminals simultaneously, and the tester should activate.  If it does not activate, you may have a problem with your battery/outlet/charger.  Run control tests to see if you have a defective battery/outlet.  If still unresponsive, the problem is likely with the charger, and you should call the charger’s maker. 

  4. Connect the positive (+) terminal to the fence wire: Unplug or turn off the charger. If you are using insulated hookup wire, strip 2 inches of insulation from it. Attach the wire to your charger’s POSITIVE (+) terminal. Run that wire out to the fence. Attach the other end of the connection wire to the fence wire with a split-bolt clamp. If you are using insulated wire, put it an inch or so underground to keep it safe from feet and lawnmowers. Or else, if heavy traffic passes over the hookup wire at any point, put the wire through a well-drained underground pipe to protect it. 

  5. Connect the negative (-) terminal to the ground rod: Take a connection wire (either bare or insulated) that is long enough to reach from the top of the ground rod to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal on your electric fence charger. Thread the two nuts onto the ground rod. Open a space between the two nuts, loop the wire around the ground rod in this space, and tighten the nuts so that the wire cannot move. Then attach the other end of the connection wire to the electric fence charger’s NEGATIVE (-) terminal.

    Make sure that NOTHING attached to the charger’s positive (+) terminal–including the charged fence wire–has been connected directly or indirectly to the charger’s negative terminal. The positively charged system (positive terminal, hookup wire, fence wire) must be kept entirely separate from the negative system (negative terminal, ground wire, ground rod, moisture in the ground). That’s because the target animal will get a shock when it provides a bridge between the two systems. If the systems are already hitched together, or if weeds leaning on the fence provide a better bridge between the two systems than the animal does, then the target animal will not get a shock.

  6. Test your fence: Take your fence tester and check the fence wire at various points along the fence line to be sure you have at least 2 kilovolts on the line. Do this by inserting the tester’s needle (at the end of the cord) into moist ground and then touching the metal tip at the top of the tester to the charged wire. The tester should register at least 2 kilovolts. If it doesn’t, even though the charger’s light is flashing, check all the connections on the fence to ensure that a good flow of charge is being maintained across all these connections. Once the tester is registering at least 2 kilovolts along the whole fence line, your fence is operating in a manner suited to repelling deer.

Maintenance Tips:

The soil just outside the charged wire should be damp enough so that any animal touching the wire will be grounded. Wetting the fence line area during periods when the soil seems dry should help to accomplish this (remember to first turn off the charger to avoid a shock).

Be aware that deer or other animal impacts, falling branches, or plants leaning on the charged wire can neutralize your system. Therefore, inspect periodically for downed posts or lines and for encroaching vines, grasses, or other plants in order to minimize times when the fence is out of action.

Finally, please note the following seasonal limitations of your system:
An AC-powered charger can operate through the winter, though something more robust than a low single-wire system may often be needed to repel deer in winter, because very low temperatures can freeze the ground hard enough to neutralize the system.
A battery-powered or solar-powered charger will be less effective in cold winter seasons, partly because of reduced sunlight and partly because chemical storage batteries tend to operate at less than full efficiency in cold weather.

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